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 09-18-2018, 12:42 PM | #1 | Member
Join Date: Aug 2009 Location: Highland, NY Posts: 25 | Blown Converter? So...
I was about to prep my TM for our camping trip to Maryland this past weekend (yes, with hurricane Florence bearing down on the east coast) when I discovered that none of the interior lights worked. The first thing I checked was the breakers and fuses - all looked good, I even turned the breakers off and back on.
As I investigated further I found that all my 120v outlets worked as well as the Air Conditioner. But none of the DC components were functional (I have a battery disconnect switch engaged when I am at home).
When I engaged the battery everything worked; lights. radio, toilet, etc. But the battery started to drain the longer I left it connected. We ended up leaving the TM at home and instead stayed in a cabin for the weekend. But now I am home and faced with fixing the issue. I am guessing that the Converter crapped out on me. Anyway to know for sure?
I have a 2004 2720SL with a Parallax 7345 Converter.
My inclination is to replace it anyway with a newer converter in order to take advantage of the newer technology like the four stage charging.
It seems that most TM owners on this forum recommend replacing the old converter with the Progressive Dynamics PD4645V (this model is listed as a direct replacement for the Parallax 7345).
It seems like a good deal for right around $200. Any recommendations?
Is it a fairly straightforward replacement?
I am pretty handy with most things mechanical/electrical (you have to be when you own a TrailManor ha, ha).
Any suggestions/recommendations are greatly appreciated. ~ John __________________
~ John & Jessica ~
Highland, NY
Tow Vehicle: 2010 Infiniti QX56 | Prodigy Brake Controller
TrailManor: 2004 2720SL | Kenwood Stereo/Polk Speakers/Sharp 22" LCD/Winegard Wingman/AC/Fiamma Awning/Electric Tongue Jack/Over Sink Cabinet/Shower Mod/Optima D34M Marine Battery | | |
| 09-18-2018, 02:27 PM | #2 | Site Team
Join Date: Feb 2003 Location: The mountains of Scottsdale, AZ, and the beaches of Maine Posts: 10,123 |
Quote: Originally Posted by SirDrake When I engaged the battery everything worked; lights. radio, toilet, etc. But the battery started to drain the longer I left it connected... I am guessing that the Converter crapped out on me The battery will drain if it is not being charged, of course. And this could be simply that the converter is not receiving AC power. There is a breaker that feeds the converter, but you checked the breakers. I don't think these converters had an input fuse inside, but it is worth a gander. If this fuse popped, you would get the same result. Quote: I have a 2004 2720SL with a Parallax 7345 Converter. The old Magnetek/Parallax units were good in their day, not so good today. The problem then was generally overcharging, not undercharging. Quote: My inclination is to replace it anyway with a newer converter in order to take advantage of the newer technology like the four stage charging. It seems that most TM owners on this forum recommend replacing the old converter with the Progressive Dynamics PD4645V (this model is listed as a direct replacement for the Parallax 7345). If you don't mind the cost and the effort, this is not a bad thing to do. For the one you choose, make sure that "compatible" means mechanically as well as electrically. Not all PD retrofit converters will fit. I don't think it is difficult, but there are several threads in the Electrical forum that lay it out. Do a Search on "Progressive" to root some of them out. On the other hand, many owners still run the old 63XX and 73XX units, and are generally satisfied. Bill __________________
2020 2720QS (aka 2720SL)
2014 Ford F-150 4WD 5.0L
Bill's Tech Stuff album | | |
| 09-19-2018, 05:00 PM | #3 | Member
Join Date: Aug 2009 Location: Highland, NY Posts: 25 |
Thanks for the info Bill.
I was digging into it tonight after work and now I am even more befuddled.
The sticker on the door say Model 7345, but the sticker on the actual Converter says it is Model 7355!
One is a 45A model the other is 55A.
I assume I should go by the sticker on the actual unit? 55A?
Not sure if it was ever swapped out, I am the third owner, previous owner never mentioned any issues with it.
Anyone have any suggestions? __________________
~ John & Jessica ~
Highland, NY
Tow Vehicle: 2010 Infiniti QX56 | Prodigy Brake Controller
TrailManor: 2004 2720SL | Kenwood Stereo/Polk Speakers/Sharp 22" LCD/Winegard Wingman/AC/Fiamma Awning/Electric Tongue Jack/Over Sink Cabinet/Shower Mod/Optima D34M Marine Battery | | |
| 09-19-2018, 08:03 PM | #4 | Site Team
Join Date: Feb 2003 Location: The mountains of Scottsdale, AZ, and the beaches of Maine Posts: 10,123 |
I'm not sure that it makes a lot of difference. The nominal capacity of either converter (45 amp or 55 amp) would exceed the capacity of the #10 wiring in the TM and the 30-amp main battery fuse. It is important to remember that, just because a converter can supply 45 amps into a dead short doesn't mean that it will stuff 45 amps into a battery, even if the battery is quite depleted. I've never seen it happen, and I've put some pretty flat batteries into my TM. Bill __________________
2020 2720QS (aka 2720SL)
2014 Ford F-150 4WD 5.0L
Bill's Tech Stuff album | | |
| 09-26-2018, 02:23 PM | #5 | yes, they hunt lions.
Join Date: Aug 2005 Location: Reno, NV Posts: 1,325 | However: Although the battery charge circuit should be fused at 30A max, I would favor the larger size for a couple of reasons: - These things generate much less heat and component stress, when run at 50-80% of maximum capability (rather than 80-100%).
- Depending on your use of other 12V appliances, you might consume additional power on other circuits. Example - accidentally leaving the Fridge on DC power (instead of switching to AC), adds another 11A of load when the fridge heater is running. Fans, the water pump, the stereo system - they all add additional loads along other wiring paths, through different fuses.
IMO, the one to get is the PD4655V (or VL), with the add-on pendant. The pendant allows you force "high-voltage boost mode" at will: This lets you charge from a generator much more quickly, burning less gas and wasting less time making noise. I own something different which is not as good. __________________
TM='06 2619 w/5K axle, 15" Maxxis "E" tires. Plumbing protector. 630 watts solar. 450AH LiFePO4 batteries, 3500 watt inverter. CR-1110 E-F/S fridge (compressor).
TV = 2007 4runner sport, with a 36 volt "power boost". | | |
| 09-26-2018, 08:54 PM | #6 | Site Team
Join Date: Feb 2003 Location: The mountains of Scottsdale, AZ, and the beaches of Maine Posts: 10,123 |
Quote: Originally Posted by rickst29 Although the battery charge circuit should be fused at 30A max, I would favor the larger size for a couple of reasons:
... Depending on your use of other 12V appliances, you might consume additional power on other circuits. Example - accidentally leaving the Fridge on DC power (instead of switching to AC), adds another 11A of load when the fridge heater is running. Good point, and I agree. Thanks. Bill __________________
2020 2720QS (aka 2720SL)
2014 Ford F-150 4WD 5.0L
Bill's Tech Stuff album | | |
| 10-04-2018, 02:16 PM | #7 | Member
Join Date: Aug 2009 Location: Highland, NY Posts: 25 |
Thanks guys.
I had the same feeling and went with the PD4655.
I will be installing it this weekend - if all goes well! ~ John __________________
~ John & Jessica ~
Highland, NY
Tow Vehicle: 2010 Infiniti QX56 | Prodigy Brake Controller
TrailManor: 2004 2720SL | Kenwood Stereo/Polk Speakers/Sharp 22" LCD/Winegard Wingman/AC/Fiamma Awning/Electric Tongue Jack/Over Sink Cabinet/Shower Mod/Optima D34M Marine Battery | | |
| 10-09-2018, 10:02 PM | #8 | Member
Join Date: Aug 2009 Location: Highland, NY Posts: 25 |
Well I got the new Converter all wired up and installed.
It took me about 2 hours to remove the old and wire up the new one.
My only complaint is that the wiring for the new converter could be a few inches longer. I would have liked to run the DC positive and negative wires up behind the DC circuit board and over the top (as the instructions recommend).
Wiring up the DC board was a bit fiddly and took the most time.
All in all it was a pretty straight forward install and everything works again!
Looking forward to the battery charging abilities of this new converter too.
Picture below is of the finished project. __________________
~ John & Jessica ~
Highland, NY
Tow Vehicle: 2010 Infiniti QX56 | Prodigy Brake Controller
TrailManor: 2004 2720SL | Kenwood Stereo/Polk Speakers/Sharp 22" LCD/Winegard Wingman/AC/Fiamma Awning/Electric Tongue Jack/Over Sink Cabinet/Shower Mod/Optima D34M Marine Battery | | |
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09-18-2018, 12:42 PM
Blown Converter?
